The Holiday Tree Illuminates for the First Time After the Start of the Gaza War
For two years during the conflict in Gaza, all public celebrations marking the holiday season were called off in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is believed to be where Christians believe Jesus was born.
However, after the recent ceasefire, this sacred city determined that now celebrations would make a comeback, as represented by the lighting of its customary, giant Christmas tree before the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"We have endured two difficult years without celebration; no holiday, no jobs, no income," remarks the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here from tourism and tourism was down to zero."
He acknowledges that the idea of resuming celebrations faced some controversy, as suffering continues in Gaza β which affects those in its small Christian population, many of whom have relatives in Bethlehem.
"Some may say it's not appropriate and others say it is fitting," Mr Canawati explains. "However, in my heart, I felt this constituted the right thing to do since Christmas must never be halted or abandoned. This represents the light of hope for us."
A Glimmer of Celebration Reappears
Locals β from both Christian and Muslim faiths β pose for selfies before the tree hung with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are accompanied by a handful of international visitors.
Vibrant lights now decorate the streets with signs promoting holiday markets and children's parties.
"We're very happy to see the tree, first thing, and to see foreigners in Bethlehem and to be able to celebrate Christmas in its authentic spirit," says local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This place is where it all started, therefore here is where we can send a message globally about what really Christmas represents. And now, if the season is calm, then I hope it will bring a nice message for the whole world."
Economic Hopes and Challenges
Nearby towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to light Christmas trees soon. Hotels β which have stood mostly vacant for two years β have an influx in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel as well as some foreign visitors.
One tourist from Russia, Angelica, is making her second pilgrimage to this region. "In my view everyone needs to come at least once during their lifetime," she says.
"I wish a lot of people will return soon because it's sad without many tourists. The sole aspect that is positive is that you don't have lengthy queues β you can come and experience more. When I came before you had to wait in line for a few hours minimum."
For now, the gift shops dotted around Bethlehem have little business, and outside the cream-coloured walls of the Church of the Nativity, which originate from the 4th century, guides largely stand idle. Before the Gaza war, it was often crammed with visitors.
"This is a city for tourists; without tourism there is no livelihood," expresses a guide named Hamza. "We hope to have people returning like before: from Europe, the Middle Eastern region, the Americas, Latin America and everywhere. We begin with the Christmas tree lighting, and then we will wait."
The Lingering Economic Impact
In the past two years, unemployment has skyrocketed within Bethlehem. Since the lethal attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the war, many thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and Israeli settlements to work.
At the same time, public servants have received just a portion of their wages by the Palestinian Authority (PA) β that administers areas within the West Bank. The PA relies on tax revenues gathered by Israel, which it is withholding β to the tune of $1.76 billion, according to the UN's trade and development agency.
Israeli officials state it is holding these funds because the PA makes financial payments to incarcerated Palestinians that encourage attacks on Israelis. The PA β facing international pressure to enact reforms β says it has lately modified its social welfare system.
A Modest Holiday
The bleak economic outlook implies that for many Christian Palestinians, even though there are now public events as well as religious services, it will constitute a subdued holiday season.
At the edge of the square, some patrons are waiting to buy sizzling balls of falafel from several shops.
"We are getting ready for Christmas following one of our most challenging times as a Palestinian people and as Christians," states Alaa Salameh, an owner of a restaurant called Afteem, a decades-old family-run eatery which has seen its income plummet. He notes that recently numerous families could not even purchase falafel β an inexpensive, traditional snack.
"The faithful will attempt to celebrate but based on their situation," Mr Salameh expects. "An individual wishing to take his kids to a festival or a show or whatever, he doesn't have the money to spend on these celebrations."
Hopes for Peace and Prosperity
In the cave-like grotto at the base of the church, a resident follows a small Indian tour group, stooping down near a silver star that indicates the spot where tradition states Jesus was born and igniting a candle nearby.
Amid ongoing high tensions throughout the area, Bethlehem residents say they are praying for tranquility β and wishing for tourists to come back to the place which is thought to be where Christmas started.